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If your thing is not to waste time in the mountains changing cameras or to fix punctures, or maybe you compete and a puncture for you means losing the race, or you are looking for advantages in technical zones with low pressures that will make you better adapt to the terrain, this is your method (applies to all types of bicycles; mtb, gravel and road).
Before going into detail, we clarify that in this article, we refer to as a rim what in some other countries is called a rim (or rim) and as a tire cover. You can also read best mountain bikes under 500.
How to tubelize the wheels of your bicycle?
Materials and tools to tubelize your wheels:
- 2 tires (preferably in good condition or new)
- 2 covers (preferably in good condition or new)
- 1 roll of tubeless tape of suitable width for the rim
- 2 tubeless valves
- Sealant liquid
- Rags, paper, and cleaning fluid
- Detachable (preferably iron)
- Foot pump or compressor
Step 1 – Clean the rim very well
If you start from a used tire, make sure it is compatible. Remove the rim tape if you have it (tie in some countries) and take the opportunity to measure the width and write it down. Once you have removed it, clean the inside of the rim very well of possible remains of dirt, glue, etc.
We recommend that the rim is in the best condition since if it has a bump and is deformed it may not seal properly.
The compatible tubeless rim will not have the spoke holes sealed, so you will need to do it yourself. Do not worry, it does not have any complications and then we will tell you how.
If you opt for the UST, you could go directly to step 6. These rims are completely watertight and are mounted together with a tire with the same characteristics. If the compatibility between rim and tire is good, you will be able to achieve the seal without the need for liquid during assembly. The market here is much smaller, so keep that in mind.
If you opt for a tubeless ready, the spoke holes are already sealed with tubeless tape and sometimes include the corresponding valves, so you can go directly to step 4.
Step 2 – Seal the rims with tubeless tape
To do this, you need the tape to be the same width as the inner profile of the rim. If it had a rim tape and when you took it out you have measured it. You already have the width you need.
Otherwise, the most effective thing is to look at how much it measures according to the manufacturer. If you are clear about the brand and model, look it up. If not, measure the inside, taking into account the curvature so as not to have problems and that the tape is too narrow. A little trick is to place a sheet of paper snugly against the bottom of the rim to make sure of the measurement.
Adhere the tubeless tape along the entire inner circumference of the rim. Start at the spoke hole closest to the valve hole and work back over it so that the ends of the tape overlap. Be careful to stretch and press to properly stick the tape, adapting it perfectly to the inner curvature of the rim, taking care that there are no folds or bubbles that could cause air leaks.
A trick to make sure that the tape is perfectly glued is to place a thin valve tube, mount the tire and inflate the tube, leaving it on for a few hours so that the expansion of the tube adapts to the contour of the rim and fixes the tape even more.
Step 3 – Place the valves on the rim
Using an awl, fine screwdriver, or scissors, poke a small hole in the tape over the hole where the valve will be housed. Then carefully insert the valve from the inside of the rim outwards. Then place the flat gasket and tighten the valve nut well so that it seals the hole perfectly. Some valves have a small internal screw in the base that reinforces this tightening and thus avoids possible leaks.
Make sure the rubber valve seal is sitting perfectly on the inside of the rim. There is nothing worse than finishing the entire process to discover an air leak in the valve.
Step 4 – Mount the cover
Once the spoke holes have been taped and the valve installed, it is time to mount the cover. There are covers that cost more work than others. If you are having difficulties, you can help with removable ones.
Begin to mount both beads of the cover starting from the valve area, but leave the opposite end of the valve without completely closing to be able to add the sealing liquid through that area.
In case you are going to put anti-puncture foam, mount only one of the sides of the cover to be able to insert the foam.
Step 5 – Place the anti-puncture foam (OPTIONAL)
If you have followed the previous step and have decided to add a puncture-resistant cloud/mousse/foam, you will only have one side of the cover in place. Insert the foam between the rim and the tire and proceed to close the other side of the tire, leaving an opening to introduce the sealing liquid.
On tires with a rigid or inflexible rim, you may find it difficult to fit the tires. Help yourself with removable iron ones better than the typical plastic ones to do it more comfortably.
Step 6 – Add the tubeless liquid
The next step is to fill the wheel with sealant. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding the amount of sealant you need. If you have no questions or are in doubt, some standards suggest an amount of 80-100ml per 27.5″ wheel for mountain biking. Reduce or increase by about 20 ml if your tire is 26 or 29 “.
Keep in mind that you will have to replenish the liquid depending on how long you use it and the terrain or conditions through which you move. The most common is every 3 months.
In some cases, you can do it through the valve, either directly from the container or with the help of a syringe and a tube that is attached to the valve. Alternatively, you can make sure of the amount you have left by opening the cover a little and refilling as we did the first time.
Step 7 – Close the cover
After having filled the tire with the required amount of sealant, turn the wheel 180º so that the tubeless liquid remains in the part that is closed on both sides and closes the tire completely. You can help with the removable ones if necessary.
Step 8 – Inflate the wheel
Place a pump (preferably standing) on the valve and cross your fingers to seal everything correctly the first time. As you increase the pressure, you will hear how the deck heats. Do not panic. Make sure it is beading properly by looking at the edges of the tire near the rim. Normally the tire has a parallel line that sticks out and tells you if it is correctly beaded.
Don’t be afraid to hit the maximum pressure listed on the side of the tire and use it at that pressure during your first ride. This will help to properly distribute the sealant throughout the deck. At home, be careful to turn the wheels from time to time so that the liquid is distributed throughout the interior surface of the tire.
Step 9 – Enjoy your new tubeless!
Check before leaving that the wheels are holding pressure. After making it roll a bit, you can now adjust to a pressure that you feel comfortable and according to the conditions of your route.
It’s always a good idea to carry a spare camera just in case you break your beads. However, this is especially important when you are testing new tubeless.
Mountain biking has always been a popular sport, but in recent years, cross country mountain biking has taken the world by storm. This type of riding is intense and exhilarating, and it can be a lot of fun for people of all ages. If you’re interested in giving cross country mountain biking a try, here’s what you need to know. Also, you can start your cross country biking with the best mountain bikes under 1000.
What is cross country mountain biking?
Cross country mountain biking is a type of off-road biking that takes place on trails and paths that are designed for mountain biking. These trails are typically narrower and more rugged than traditional bike trails, and they often include obstacles such as rocks, roots, and logs. Cross country mountain biking is considered to be a very challenging sport, and it requires endurance, concentration, and balance.
How is cross country mountain biking different from other types of mountain biking?
There are two major differences between cross country mountain biking and other types of mountain biking. The first is that cross country bikes are lighter than downhill bikes, which means they’re often easier to pedal. Cross country bikes also tend to be less durable than other types of mountain bikes, so they’re not as well-suited for stunts or jumps.
The second major difference is that cross country mountain biking typically takes place on groomed trails, while downhill mountain biking takes place on more rugged terrain. Cross country mountain biking is also less extreme than downhill mountain biking, and it usually involves riding in a group with other riders.
What gear do I need to get started?
To get started, you’ll need a mountain bike and a helmet. You should also carry food and water, as well as any other items that could be useful on the trail (such as gloves and tire repair kits). Since cross country mountain biking takes place on groomed trails, you don’t need as much gear as you would need for other types of mountain biking. However, it’s always a good idea to be prepared for anything.
Is XC mountain biking dead?
No. Despite what some people may think, cross country mountain biking is very much alive and well. This type of mountain biking has been around for decades, and it’s one of the most popular types of mountain biking in the world today. If you’re interested in trying out XC riding or if you already ride this way, don’t be discouraged – the sport is only getting bigger and better.
Facts about cross country mountain biking
Here, we will present the facts about cross country mountain biking.
– Cross country mountain biking is a type of off-road biking that takes place on trails and paths that are designed for mountain biking.
– These trails are typically narrower and more rugged than traditional bike trails, and they often include obstacles such as rocks, roots, and logs.
– Cross country mountain biking is considered to be a very challenging sport, and it requires endurance, concentration, and balance.
– There are two major differences between cross country mountain biking and other types of mountain biking. The first is that cross country bikes are lighter than downhill bikes, which means they’re often easier to pedal. Cross country bikes also tend to be less durable than other types of mountain bikes, so they’re not as well-suited for stunts or jumps. The second major difference is that cross country mountain biking typically takes place on groomed trails, while downhill mountain biking takes place on more rugged terrain.
– To get started, you’ll need a mountain bike and a helmet. You should also carry food and water, as well as any other items that could be useful on the trail (such as gloves and tire repair kits).
– Cross country mountain biking is less extreme than downhill mountain biking, and it usually involves riding in a group with other riders.
Cross country mountain biking disciplines
Here, we will briefly talk about the disciplines of cross country mountain biking.
– Cross country – Cross country is a discipline that includes continuous ascents and descents on a course that is usually between 5 and 12 kilometers long. The challenge of the cross country lies in the rider’s endurance capability, as it requires many hours of riding to complete a competition course. The terrain is less technical than other forms of mountain biking, even though there are still some carefully managed sections of steepness and rock gardens to challenge the rider’s bike handling abilities.
– Cyclo-cross – Cyclo-cross is a form of off-road bicycle racing that takes place on rugged courses with obstacles such as rocks, sand, dirt, grass, steep slopes, and roots. This form of mountain biking is typically raced in the autumn and winter (September – February) on tracks around 2.5 kilometers long.
– Super D – A super D course is an extremely steep downhill course that involves timed sections with several obstacles to be navigated. Riders travel between 30 and 50 mph and have to quickly maneuver through different types of terrain.
– Enduro bike racing – Enduro mountain bike racing is a form of cross country mountain biking that involves several timed downhill segments where the rider attempts to get from the top of a mountain to the bottom as quickly as possible. Unlike other forms of cross country mountain biking, enduro racing allows the use of a shuttle vehicle to take the rider and their bike to the top of the mountain. This form of mountain biking is relatively new, having been first introduced in 2003.
Mountain biking is not for the faint of heart. The sport requires an amazing amount of coordination, strength, and endurance that can take years to develop. However, with consistent training, you can become a pro in no time at all! If you are interested in mountain biking but aren’t sure where to start or how much it will cost, this article should give you some good starting points on what gear to buy and how much money you might need over the course of your first season as a beginner rider. We hope these insights help get your gears turning about taking up one of our favorite hobbies- mountain biking!
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Gone are the old days when you only had a few inches of front travel to overcome the roughest and most technical terrain. Luckily, one of the great revolutions of the mountain bike is a longer trip on its fork. Big wheel mongoose bike is providing stable balance for its flat tire and forks.
Without a doubt, this is a fundamental part of the enduro discipline since it helps us when it comes to overcoming certain obstacles, roots, rocks and steps, and correcting our mistakes.
A fork is made up of the head tube, plate (or crown), bars, bridge, and bottles. We will also have some adjustment dials that will generally be more complete if the investment is greater.
Suspension fork construction
According to the situation of the bars, we can find two types:
Classic: that of a lifetime, wherever you look, the damping is sure to exist in the upper part of the fork. You have a multitude of models on the market.
Inverted: in this case, the bars in charge of damping are in the lower part of the fork, where it joins the hub. There are hardly a couple of models on the market, so you will have to look exhaustively at the different component purchasing websites if it catches your attention.
There are different coatings for the bars whose function is to minimize friction, improve behavior, and prevent wear. The Kashima is the best known in the biker world for its characteristic golden color. There is also the DLC, TiN… but don’t eat the jar because it doesn’t even come in most of the manufacturer’s spec sheets.
Types of suspension forks
Depending on the system we have inside the bars and bottles, we will have two clearly differentiated families, although physically and externally, they are hardly distinguished.
Air suspension forks
Inside the left bottle of this type of fork, there is an air chamber that compresses or expands when it works. The air chamber is in charge of the damping.
Advantages of air suspension:
- Lighter weight
- Great fit and adaptation to driving
- Disadvantages of air suspension
- Requires more maintenance
- Not so “fine” or soft touch
- They are affected by sudden variations in temperature
- Spring suspension forks
In this type of fork, a spring is introduced inside the left bottle, producing the damping when the piston compresses or pushes the spring.
Advantages of the spring suspension:
- Requires less maintenance
- Touch superior to air, soft, and with great sensitivity
- Unalterable due to sudden variations in temperature
- Disadvantages of spring suspension:
- They are generally heavier
- Less adaptation or adjustment, depending on the hardness of the spring you choose
- Fork steerer tube diameter
To fit the proper fork on your enduro frame, you will need to check whether the head tube supports a straight or tapered head tube. In addition, it is very important to make sure that both the frame size, the fork, and the direction match. For this, we always recommend consulting the manufacturer’s technical information.
The offset or advance of the fork is the distance between the axis of the steering head and the center of the axis of the front wheel. This is another of the measures that, together with the geometry of the bike is important since it considerably influences the behavior of the bicycle. Simply put, offset helps balance maneuverability and stability.
A higher offset increases the wheelbase, which slows the center of gravity, improves front wheel handling and the handling is more “edgy.”
A lower offset advances the center of gravity by loading more weight in front. As a result, the behavior is more stable at high speeds and in a straight line but is less agile at low speeds.
Check the specifications and recommendations of both the frame and fork manufacturer to make your decision correct.
Fox 38 suspension
The market has been increasing the diameter of the bottles to reach ranges from 35 to 38 mm (although they will soon launch a new fork with 39 mm). A larger diameter increases the stiffness and theoretically flexes less, which helps to turn with greater precision and also obtain more resistance against small impacts.
However, a larger diameter means larger seals, more surface contact, more material, and a larger housing for the oil, so friction is increased and some extra weight is added as well.
Even so, each manufacturer uses different materials, thicknesses, technologies, etc., so these statements must be taken with some suspicion.
The forks are not designed to be used with different tires interchangeably. You should always make sure that the fork is compatible with the size of your wheel.
The same happens with the axis measurement. Always make sure that the measurements of the fork and your axle are compatible. Common measurements are 15 x 100mm (for not-so-new models) and 15 x 110mm (boost), which have become the new norm for enduro bikes due to their increased stiffness.
One of the most important characteristics when choosing an Mtb fork is the travel of the bars. And it is that although they are only a few centimeters, they are of great help to face complicated terrain with greater security.
As with the dimensions that we have already reviewed, the fork travel must be appropriate to the geometry and size of your frame. Depending on the performance you’re looking for, your riding skills, and the type of trails you typically ride, for an enduro bike, you can choose between 140-180mm of travel.
The possibility of adjusting more parameters depends on the quality. A higher range always offers a greater adjustment, being able to have the following:
It is called preload to the necessary pressure that you have to introduce in the main chamber of the fork through the valve located in the upper part of one of the bars. If it is spring, you will have to adjust the necessary tension through the corresponding dial. Look at the manufacturer’s specifications and adjust the pressure or tension to your weight.
The Sag is the difference between the travel at rest and the one subjected to the pressure of your weight. One of the bars usually has a small red rubber ring for easy viewing and even a percentage scale.
Normally for enduro use, it is recommended that it be around 25%. However, you have to take into account the indications of some manufacturers, your personal taste and your driving style, as well as the type of terrain you are moving through. Adjust the preload according to what you need.
Compression [low speed (LSC) and high speed (HSC)]
Most of the forks have a dial on the top of the right bottle to regulate the hardness of the suspension and adapt it to the terrain. The vast majority of forks have dials with two or three positions (general – open, firm, pedal) and can even have two to adjust the behavior during pedaling or for jumps and obstacles.
This operation is usually done from the fork itself, although there are manufacturers and models where it is possible to do it remotely with a lever on the handlebar in a very safe way.
Usually, we will have another dial at the bottom of the right bottle that allows you to adjust the return speed of the tour. You can adjust the bounce by turning the dial a certain number of clicks. We can find two dials in higher range forks to adjust the rebound during pedaling or in jumps and obstacles.
In some models, the fork travel or the sensitivity at the initial stroke can be modified. Other models include a purge button to equalize atmospheric pressure so as not to compromise performance or sensitivity.
As you can see, the world of settings is very wide. Decide if you need all of them and check the manufacturer’s specifications.
Suspension Fork Maintenance
There are a couple of basic maintenance things you should keep in mind, like wiping the dust off the bars with a rag or lubricating the seals from time to time.
It’s a good idea to check your fork pressure regularly. Check your fork manual to find out how many hours you should change the oil, seals, etc. If you have knowledge and skill, go ahead. If not, contact your trusted workshop.
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